Rochefort-en-Terre & Clisson

Traveling through beautiful France you never know what you are going to discover but we certainly didn’t expect to find a special place saved by an American and another by the Italians ~Rochefort-en-Terre & Clisson! Rochefort-en-Terre was only 10 minutes from our previous night stop and Clisson was just after we’d left Brittany. Entirely different but each uniquely special and a delight to discover!

Rochefort-en-Terre 

Rochefort-en-Terre is another one of  les plus Beaux Villages de France.  A fairy tale village renowned for its abundant flower-filled streets, granite houses and artisan shops. The village was founded in the 12th century around a fortified castle on a rocky outcrop, hence village’s name, roche forte ~’strong rock’.

During the Middle Ages as it began to control Brittany’s trade routes Rochefort-en-Terre’s importance grew. Like other places we’d visited in Brittany, its prosperity attracted merchants, craftsmen and wealthy families many of whom built the elegant granite and timber-framed houses still seen today.

Perhaps the most remarkable chapter in Rochefort-en-Terre’s history began in 1907, when an American painter, Alfred Klots, purchased the then ruined château. He restored much of the property and encouraged local artisans and residents to preserve the village’s historic character.

During both World Wars, Klots and his family maintained close ties with the village, helping establish Rochefort-en-Terre as an artists’ community.

Today the village is famous for its spectacular floral displays. Each summer, balconies, window boxes and public spaces overflow with colourful flowers, earning Rochefort-en-Terre numerous awards in France’s national floral competition.

We enjoyed some of the antique shops

and strolling through its picturesque streets where time seems to have stood still.

We reluctantly tore ourselves away, leaving Brittany and headed south for what we’d been told was a little slice of Italy in western France!

Clisson

Clisson is just 35km south east of Nantes, on the banks of the Sèvre Nantaise in the Pays de la Loire region of the Loire-Atlantique. A small, distinctive town in western France, with its terracotta roof tiles, ochre-coloured villas, cypress trees, loggias and elegant gardens, Clisson is often referred to as the Tuscany of France. Intrigued, we were curious to find out why.

Halles de Clisson

Our first discovery was this beautiful 14th-century covered market, Halles de Clisson. Its massive oak beams dominated the square and surrounding buildings and it seemed the perfect shady spot for a coffee or beer or even a glass of rosé with a quick sandwich.

We were treated to an unexpected performance by local school children, doubtless singing and dancing where centuries of children had done so before.

Château de Clisson

Clisson grew up around around an 11th-century fortress built by the powerful Lords of Clisson. During the Hundred Years’ War, this castle guarded the frontier between Brittany and the region of Poitou. It became one of the strongest fortresses in the region. Today, with its imposing walls and towers overlooking the river, it is one of the largest medieval castle ruins in western France.

In 1793, during the War in the Vendée, the medieval town, was burned, and the population devastated. In the 1790’s, local sculptor François-Frédéric Lemot and the Cacault brothers from Italy, helped rebuild Clisson adopting the Italian style of their home, giving the town its unique Italian appearance.

The Muscadet local wine 

Clisson lies in the heart of the Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine appellation. If you enjoy white wine, look for Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Clisson, one of the region’s premium crus, known for its richer, more complex style.

Night 6  La Tillaie Spa et Sauna

We left Clisson and headed  170km (105 miles) further south for our next night stop in Pont-lʼAbbé-dʼArnoult at La Tillaie Spa & Sauna where we were looked after by our delightful host Olivier!

This was another Sawdays recommended place to stay. The accommodation was simple but the warmth and welcome of Olivier, who cooked us dinner and provided a sumptuous breakfast, made it very special. A haven of peace and quiet in a pretty village close to La Rochelle and Royan. It had been a special day exploring Rochefort-en-Terre & Clisson, who knew one had been one saved by an American and the other by the Italians?