I always love to discover a new village in the Luberon. On an previous trip we had eaten in the delightful and delicious, family run restaurant and hotel, L’Auberge des Tilleuls which sits at the bottom of the tiny village of Grambois. This time we returned to explore Grambois itself, a pretty, country drive 24km east of Lourmarin. It’s a picturesque spot whose cobblestone streets wind between the walls of ancient houses. Tranquil and lacking the bustle and commercialism of some its neighbours it’s easy to loose yourself along its narrow, vaulted passages and become immersed in a bygone era of medieval knights and romance.
On Saturdays the central square hosts the village’s market. When we strolled though it, it was deserted with just the sound of the pretty stone fountain chuckling good-naturedly to itself. Beside the square lies the Gothic-Romanesque Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir church, topped by its original 12th century tower and 19th century campanile.
In the 14th century, Grambois was one of Provence’s twelve fortresses which explains its rich heritage. Walking the town today you’ll pass by the door of the ramparts and the passage-way “de templiers” with its ornate windows and the beautiful nobles’ residence built on the foundations of a 9th century chateau, now privately owned.
Pretty doorways such as this pepper Grambois’ meandering alleyways.
Well trodden and crumbling stone steps lead enticingly to the entrances of its Renaissance properties,
many of which make up the walls of the village and have stood for centuries within its enfold.
Built on a promontory, like a fortress, Grambois overlooks the resplendent valley of Aigues. Lush with vineyards, fruit trees and Provencal crops it stretches across the horizon beyond the Luberon hills.
I would highly recommend Grambois restaurant L’Auberge des Tilleuls
Dine in its pretty garden at lunchtime or in its charming dining room in the evening.
Download the PDF travel guide for Lourmarin and the surrounding area here