Cucuron is a delightful, southern Luberon village just a ten minute drive from Lourmarin. Surrounded by rolling vineyards & olive groves, beloved for its charm and central ‘bassin‘, Cucuron has become a favourite of movie makers. Throughout the village, several well presented information boards share old photos and some of the local history. We’ve enjoyed reading the story of Cucuron’s ancient past and meandering through its narrow streets up to the church of this enchanting little place we’ve grown to love.

Portail de L’Étang

You don’t have to walk far into the village before you see the grand Le Portail de L’Étang, one of the two remaining 16th century gates built when Cucuron was a fortified enclosure. The wall that made up that enclosure was six hundred meters long, nine meters high and one meter wide. Originally there were four gates all with chain drawbridges. There were six towers, several brattices and a walkway around the top of the perimeter. Circling the exterior of the wall was a moat to further protect the village from any unwanted guests.

Bassin de L’Étang

Just beyond Le Portail de L’Étang is Cucuron’s most famous jewel, Le Bassin. This splendid water basin takes pride of place in the village’s center. Dating back to 1403, Le Bassin was originally built as a reservoir, collecting water from the Luberon springs to supply the local flour mills. In 1515 it formally became part of the village of Cucuron. Le Bassin underwent considerable reconstruction in 1813 and in 1954 it was given a formal classification. In 2006 both Le Bassin and its surroundings became a ‘picturesque site of the Vaucluse’ and in 2017 were labeled as ‘a remarkable tree lined area of France.’

Le Bassin features is many films perhaps most famously in ‘A Good Year’ where the indomitable Fanny Chanel reluctantly gives in to the persistent wooing of the arrogant Englishman, Max, and agrees to meet him there for a date. “Place d’Etang, 8 o’ clock, don’t be late!”

Now sat bedside a row of restaurants and cafés, Le Bassin sits majestically beneath the shaded canopy of two hundred year old plane trees. Market stalls line the sides of Le Bassin each Tuesday morning. More modest than Lourmarin’s Friday spectacle but full of a similar bustle where its fun to browse before sitting with a coffee at one of the brightly colored string of cafés and restaurants. Recent refurbishments to the cobbled area around Le Bassin have allowed more market stalls to grace this space each week which has done wonders to the value of local real estate.

Restaurants in Cucuron

For a small village Cucuron boasts several good restaurants:

La Petite Maison

At one end of the basin sits perhaps the village’s most long standing and prestigious dining places, La Petite Maison. Once the village bar, the property was beautifully restored in keeping with its traditional decor, its tapestries, period floor tiles and old woodwork were all refurbished and as it’s name suggests, the restaurant has maintained the ambience of a charming, former home. La Petite Maison offers a classic but creative Provençal menu where it is possible to arrange a family style dinner for up to twelve people in one of the downstairs reception rooms. La Petite Maison is open from Wednesday lunchtime to Sunday evening each week. The 2024 set menu is about 70 euros per person plus wine, booking is essential!

Le Cercle

Diagonally opposite Le Bassin is Le Cercle, which offers delicious, casual Provencal dining, a local favourite, especially on market day.

Moris

Our favorite, and that of many of the locals is Moris. Moris is discreetly tucked away on a tiny lane behind the bell tower which you pass through to get to the restaurant.

Moris is a real gem. The interior is an interesting blend of centuries old architecture with a chic modern style. The talented Mauritian chef has a devised a creative local menu that has a distinctive ‘island’ twist. Pictured here is just the amuse-bouche, a delicious temptation often served in French restaurants before the starter. There are several menu choices, the three course set Menu de Saison is very good value at 42 euros per person. Booking is essential, you really won’t be disappointed!

The Bell Tower – Porte & Tour de l’horloge or beffroi

The ancient gateway and Bell tower you go through to get to Moris was known as Le Revelin. This was the original main access into the 13th century ramparts. The clock belfry was built in 1541 but not classified as a historical monument in 1921.

Snapshots of Cucuron

Like many places in Provence, when walking through Cucuron it’s difficult to keep your camera off. As you wander through its streets there seems to be so many irresistible camera shots to be had from its’:

Fountains

shuttered windows

of many different styles and colours

an even bright flower displays outside people’s houses.

The narrow street up to the church is a pretty walk

between a line of painted shuttered windows.

L’Église Notre Dame de Beaulieu

At the top of this street is the beautiful romanesque style church which dates back to 1292 and became the parish church in 1541. If you visit between mid May to mid August you will be struck by the sight of a tall tree trunk secured to the wall beside the church entrance. This is known as L’Arbre de Mai, one of Cucuron’s very special stories.

L’Arbre de Mai

L’Arbre de Mai is a pagan tradition dating from the Romans when trees were planted to provide shade for Roman celebrations. During the 15th century, King Rene (1408-1480) made this a Christian tradition. In Cucuron this tradition is also linked to the devastating days of the 1720 plague which lasted a year and killed over a thousand of Cucuron’s then three thousand inhabitants.

The legend is that the curse of the plague ended following a procession through Cucuron. Besieged by illness and loss the clergy led a procession of the village’s inhabitants through the town. Barefoot, their faces covered in ash, each person carried lit torches with the relics of Sainte Tulle. Shortly after this procession the plague ended. It was subsequently decided that each May the villagers should give thanks for the lifting of the plague’s curse by processing through the village with a tree trunk. This tree should be taller than the bell tower and propped up next it. Every year since, a tree is carefully selected and cut down by the men of the village and carried back to Cucuron. To this day children dressed in traditional costume form part of the procession holding a flag symbolising tolerance. The trunk is secured to the church wall, then blessed before being decorated with votives and it remains there until August 15.

The Sainte Tulle chapel is on the right when entering the church.

Outside the church

Just steps away from the church is a stunning view of the surrounding countryside of the southern Luberon. I have often stared at it wondering to myself why I would ever leave this beautiful region.

A symphony for the senses, this enchanting little village is yet another small part of this wonderous part of Provence that is so firmly implanted in my soul. If you visit I think you too will discover for yourself exactly what I mean.

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