It’s raining today in Provence and after nearly a month of clear, blue skies and gentle, warm autumnal days, temperatures have plummeted signaling the beginnings of winter. No where, even Lourmarin, is as idyllic in the rain, or is it?
Perhaps enticed by the recently hung lights across the villages streets and the shops starting to become festooned with Christmas, with the clocks falling back this weekend, winter seems to have silently crept upon us. A low lying mist hangs over the hillsides, a mystical backdrop for the foliage’s late autumnal palette of colors.
Sweaters, scarfs and umbrellas have been rooted out and fireside baskets replenished with logs ready for the approaching winter chill. Tears, from hours of relentless rain run down the drain pipes, the walls of shuttered buildings streaming as if they have head colds.
Meanwhile, my son 5000 miles away in San Francisco, reminds me that there daytime temperatures remain at a consistent 25 degrees and although the nights are drawing in winter is still a memory. Navigating the puddles along the grey twisty lanes, the vines beside me dripping like rows of forgotten washing, California seem very far away. With the weather forecast in Provence not that promising, has this special corner of the world lost its allure?
You probably know what I am going to say. For me the sensory splendor never diminishes here and despite the rain and cloudier skies it remains a beguiling delight to explore and be a part of.
Walking and hiking
The leaves are turning to shades of deep umber and gold and on long meandering walks the natural beauty is a visual joy.
The vendagne (grape harvest) is complete but the wine domains are still open from which to sample.
Exploring local villages
During winter in Provence, popular villages like Roussillon are more serene without the jostling tourists.
The sunflowers might long ago have ceased to dance but everywhere there are shutters to catch the eye!
Markets during winter in Provence
The market stalls have thinned out but so have the visitors so its easier to get around and there’s still plenty of bounty to entice.
Cèpes Porcini, one of the tastiest wild mushrooms one of many varieties available just before winter in Provence.
Christmas Marchés de Noël everywhere, they’re about to start!
Restaurant reservations are easier to secure, especially those sought after el fresco spots, so hard to get during busier times!
And just being here, however simple…
remains intoxicating, particularly here ~ ‘A Good Year’s’ Château Canorgue!
And especially here in Lourmarin,
my fairy tale village.
Looking to rent a house, rent ours! Maison des Cerises a village house in the heart of Lourmarin.